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When curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” says the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary honour.